Osaka: Part II (Chain version)
Where I eat at chain restaurants in Osaka.
Truth be told, this one took a long time to write. I think it’s because I’ve been too busy living my life. I took this trip to Osaka out of desperation: I thought I was losing my mind. I knew I wanted to disappear somewhere where I could barely speak the language, but a city that I was comfortable with. Osaka it was. After Osaka, I had a whirlwind turnaround before I left for NYC - so that really didn’t give me the time to sit down think through this (I know, what was I doing during the 18.5h flight? Sleeping tbh.). Anyway, this is not the best, but if I didn’t upload this, I will forget to put this out in the world and I’d rather it be out there than languishing in my notes app.
I confess: I look down on chains and I always try my best to not eat at chains when I travel. But chains are supposed to be synonymous with reliability. Perhaps not the most mind blowing food, but you always know what you're gonna get. I mean, din tai fung is possibly the best chain restaurant ever right? And I love it! This trip to Osaka, I thought why the hell not? I decided to eat as many chains as I can (with some leeway for things I wanted to try). I thought it a good time to revisit some old favourites, especially since I think my tastebuds have gotten an upgrade over the years: are my tastebuds now as snobby as my attitude towards chains? (Probably…)
Ichiran
I jumped in line because it was 6pm and the signs promised only a ten minute wait. A ten minute wait in the middle of Shinsaibashi?? Sign me up. Ichiran has always been one of the most famous exports of Japan.. and every Singaporean travelling there always makes it a point to go. I've stopped going in recent years because I just don't find it worth it to queue hours for it, and frankly, it's just ramen. Also, as luck would have it, I was seated next to a Singaporean mom and her daughter.
But the nature of Ichiran means you don't have to socialise AT ALL. I love how it's just the booth and you. The server also lets down the blinds so you really get this experience huddling on a stool in your own little booth and you can just focus on your noods. My ichiran order has changed - I went for the light broth and a lighter touch seasoning: I think I might have stumbled upon my new fave combination? Perhaps it's age, but the lighter broth means it's just more slurpable and I don't get all grossed out by the richness of the broth halfway through (aka not jelat). It was still porky and thicc; noods were done extra firm, and my side of negi was the cherry on top. Delish. There's a reason why people line up for this, why Ichiran has remained so popular for so long, and why Ippudo aspires to be it. I will always come back, but I will not queue for it.
Soup Stock Tokyo
I first had Soup Stock Tokyo in 2018. The smell beckoned me in - and I recalled Tess once told me she loved it. I don't exactly remember what exactly my first order was, but I remember trying a Hokkaido potage, and then my life changed. What I thought to be a snack turned out to be a complete revelation - I now make sure to eat this at least once when I travel to Japan. Yes, Soup Stock Tokyo has very female centric clientele (the past few times I've dined there I've not bumped into a single male), but like most Japanese food, it's perfect for a solo traveller. There are two sets: a soup et soup set and a soup et curry set! Their curries are all veggie, and they are excellent. This is one of the rare places in Japan that's veggie friendly.
The curries are more of an Indian-style curry with some Japanese influence. And you get a choice of a carb too: between the choice of bread and rice, and honestly, it's a struggle to pick! Both are great - Japan is the land of rice and rice is of a different quality here, always with more chew but never losing their fluff. But the bread here.. wow, it's also good. It's served warm, and like all breads in Japan, it isn't just soft, there's a bit of mochi-texture/bite to it (might it be the flour??).
Anyway, I've seriously contemplated bringing their frozen soups home in my luggage. So, if you're sleeping on this, go!!
551 Horai (specifically, the butaman aka pork bun)
Made in Kansai and super proud of their roots - 551 Horai is only available in the Kansai region and it's one of the omiyage (souvenirs) that travellers bring home after visiting Kansai. Look: it is a pork bun, but it's not a fluffy, Chinese steamed char siew bao. If you are comparing it to the char siew bao while having the butaman, first, you are cheating on the 551 Horai (sacrilegious!), and second, you're just setting yourself up for disappointment.
What exactly is a butaman? Imagine a bun the size of two char siew bao, with a filling akin to that of a pork siu mai, and wrapped in steamed bread. You also eat the butaman with mustard. It is very delicious and very porky, which some people might not like!!! The first time I had it, I had it during winter AND I THOUGHT IT THE BEE'S KNEES. The second time was in May, and while I thought it was still nice, but it wasn't as nice as when I first had it.
Is this due to the law of diminishing marginal returns? I don't know. There’s only one way to find out: I gotta come back in winter again. In all seriousness, this is one I enjoy a lot immensely in the cold, but fans of normal baos might not feel the same.
Tonkatsu KYK
I'm not sure why KYK isn't as famous as Maisen; I think they're better - they are just less popular, so there are no lines (yay!), and I like the range of tonkatsu on offer. At KYK, I always get the tenderloin / prawn mix. I just don't find Maisen worth the lines! Maisen's obviously great but waiting 30 mins in line at Omotesando at 1pm just to get in is just a no go for me.
One of my fave things to order at KYK is also their tonjiru (pork bone broth with porky bits and konnyaku mmm yes) - I always upgrade my miso soup and IT IS ALWAYS WORTH IT. Miso soup is like living life in 2D, but tonjiru is like living life in 4D. Idk how the Japanese do it but the tonkatsu at KYK is always so earth shatteringly crisp and the pork, so tender! I like mine with the classic tonkatsu sauce, but a swipe of mustard also slaps.
That said, there’s one thing I wouldn't get here - the crab croquette. I was defo setting myself up for disappointment ordering it because the last one I had was from Ginza Katsukami (yup a specialty tonkatsu omakase - which is a ridic comparison really) and it didn't live up to expectations.
As always, rice and cabbage were free flow, but the KYK gets points for offering a full salad bar with cherry tomatoes and sweetcorn on offer.
I was going to end my post here, but ummm I would be remiss if I didn’t mention my favourite chain of all time, McDs. I don't even think this needs an explanation, or you might be wondering, wtf??? Seriously though, Japan has the best Mcdonalds in the world & I think I could eat this everyday, on a holiday. The best part about Maccas in Japan is the freshness. The food is assembled with care - how very Japanese - and the food is always hot. I used to always be torn between the ebi burger and the Mcpork, but I now always go for the Mcpork, because it's super rare to get a pork burger in a fast food chain.
Alright - I'm sorry this post came so late, and I'm trying to be more disciplined about penning my thoughts down, though I’ve been doing very poorly on this front. Life has been hectic lately, though that's not a reason to neglect the things that bring me joy. But what I'm definitely doing more is savouring each moment - so you know when I actually put my thoughts down on something, it’s good.